Redux is where I give those tips, tricks, suggestions, and recommendations that one might typically find at the top of each recipe in a traditional cookbook. Since Menus have limited real estate, we do that here on the internet. And better still: whenever I think of a clever new idea for an old recipe, I’ll include it. Everything old is new again.

While recipe testing I made the Grand Marnier Soufflé for myself a few times. Not finishing it in one sitting, I had leftover soufflé for breakfast the next mornings. I make mention of this only because I preferred the deflated soufflé, which means not only is it not the end of the world if your soufflé isn’t light and airy, but also that I might be bit white trash.

Piri Piri

Of course you can use any brown spirit in place of applejack: brandy is better; bourbon works, too. You can also change up the combination of dried and fresh chilis. These will change the character of the sauce, of course, but that’s the fun of it.

Applejack & Maple Cocktail

Fun fact: Laird & Company—America’s OG applejack distiller—was the first incorporated company in the United States: License No. 1 from the U.S. Department of the Treasury in 1780. Before that, George Washington included it in soldiers’ rations during the Revolutionary War.

Pumpkin Soup

If it isn’t clear, the corn cobs in the shrimp stock recipe are after the kernels have been removed and used in the Cornbread; and the shrimp shells are the discard from Shrimp Mozambique. It isn’t as “shrimpy” as you might think. The flavor is nuanced and works well in the Pumpkin Soup, adding a layer that you might not identify as shrimp if somebody didn’t tell you.

My favorite part about shrimp stock is that it comes out pink.

The pumpkin here is a sugar pumpkin like you’d use in a pie, not the standard-issue carving pumpkin for Halloween. But any autumnal vegetable can be used in place of pumpkin: butternut squash or sweet potato, for example. I steer clear of kabocha because it’s so darn hard to peel.

If given the option I’ll almost always choose marjoram over oregano because oregano makes everything taste like pizza and marjoram is a bit subtler. But if marjoram is hard to come by, use oregano.

Pepita-Chili Paste

I try not to play favorites, but this is an incredible–and incredibly versatile–recipe. Hard stop. Use it as a dip for tortilla chips. Grill oyster mushrooms whole and then chop them up and toss them with the pepita-chili paste while they’re still hot. I once stirred the paste into refried beans and used it as an insider layer in quesadillas.

Shrimp Mozambique & Cornbread

If you squint, this is a riff on shrimp and grits. Cornbread is sweet–leave out the corn kernels and add orange zest, call it a cake, and serve it for dessert–so the spices from the Shrimp Mozambique make it properly savory.

Grand Marnier Soufflé

Crème Anglaise run through an ice cream maker is vanilla ice cream, so if you don’t want to bother with crème anglaise then do the reverse: buy a pint of fancy ice cream and leave it out to melt.

The souffle for six will be just a bite or two of orange-flavored, boozy air for each guest, which may be a disappointment to some, so set expectations accordingly. Personally, my preference after a large meal is but a bite of something sweet.

Wine Pairings by Slope Cellars
436 7th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11215

First
crisp and herbaceous Gruner Vetliner, Verdejo, or Verdicchio
light and spicy red Loire Grolleau, Italian Schiava, or Portuguese Baga

Last
glorious and luscious Marsala, e.g. Marco de Bartoli
semi-sweet and sparkling, e.g. Marenco Brachetto d’Acqui